Throughout the '80s and early '90s Chris Moeller tested countless bikes for magazines like BMX Action, Go; The Rider's Manual, and BMX Plus! He built the first S&M frame back in 1987. Fit Bike Co. was founded in 1999. Needless to say, the man knows his shit when it comes to bikes. And with miles of tubing, numerous jigs, and highly skilled welders just outside his office door, he's got the option of building his own custom frame at any given time or riding any frame in the S&M or Fit lineup. So what's he riding right here, right now? A simple but sweet chrome S&M Credence C.C.R. Check the specs and read on to see why…
Weight: 185 pounds
Years in the saddle: “It’s been a solid 35 years.”
Frame: S&M Credence C.C.R., 21″ top tube
Fork: S&M Widemouth Pitchfork
Bars: S&M Credence, 8.7″ (heigth), 29″ “uncut” (width)
Stem: S&M Challenger
Grips: Fit Tech
Bar ends: Fit
Brake lever: Dia-Compe Tech-77
Brake cable: Odyssey Linear Slic
Brakes: Dia-Tech 996 Hombré
Seatpost: S&M Long Johnson
Seat: S&M Coxie Pivotal
Cranks: Fit Indent 24, 175 mm
Bottom bracket: Fit
Sprocket: S&M Tuffman, 27-tooth
Chain: KMC K710SL
Front Tire: S&M Mainline, 20″ x 2.4″ Prototype
Front Rim: Chrome Revenge ARC
Front hub: Profile mini
Rear Tire: Fit F.A.F.-K, 20″ x 1.95″
Rear Rim: Revenge ARC
Rear hub: Profile mini cassette, 9-tooth
Spokes: Wheelsmith, butted stainless
Pedals: Fit MAC, sealed
Helmet: Yes, Mom.
Piece of a BF grip under my straddle hanger. [Sean] McKinney-built wheels.
Are you riding anything other than trails these days?
Just cruising the streets during the day and doing my best Pete Augustin moves.
Out of all the S&M and Fit frames to choose from, and the ability to easily make a custom frame, why are you on this?
It has a little mellower head angle, a longer back end, and 3/8″ rear slots. Reminds me of a race bike with 990s.
How have your frames evolved since your first S&M frame—the “K9 D-Zine” from ’87?
Everything is longer, steeper, and stronger. Material is so much better now, and geometry is dialed. Those old ’80s S&Ms were loopy!
How come there are no stickers on your frame?
No idea…didn’t even realize that.
Explain your setup. I know you recently went up to some bigger bars.
Yeah, I rode the same LTF for about six years and it had Slams and a Redneck on it. This bike has a lower BB, taller bars, and a top-load stem, so I’m not crouched over so much. Plus the bars are wider. It took a little bit to get used to, but I really like it now.
How do you place your bars?
Pretty much straight up.
Why the headset spacers? Couldn’t you just cut the steer tube down and use a taller bar?
At first I was just too lazy to do that, and now I like it, so the spacers can stay.
Why a top-load over a front-load?
I can adjust my bars without taking my number plate off!
How do you like your brakes to feel?
Crispy, bro. The Odyssey Linear Cable does the job.
Does having the brakes on the chain stays versus the seat stays make a difference to you?
They both have their pros and cons. I can go either way.
What's your seat height rule?
I put it up high for riding around sometimes, and when I drop it back down it’s about a fist height.
Overall, how do you like your bike to feel—chain tension? Crank tightness? Grips—thick, thin, new, or worn-out? Tire pressure, et cetera?
I like my bike to feel dialed if possible. I hate stuff rattling around and shaking, but I like my cranks to spin. Tech grips are the best grips I’ve ever ridden and feel broken in when you first put them on—with spray paint. I run about 65 pounds in my tires.
What parts do you go through the fastest?
I used to bend spindles with 19 mm cranks, but I haven’t had a problem with the 24 mm.
Are you concerned with bike weight? How much does this bike weigh?
I don’t like heavy bikes, but I’m not super crazy about weight. This bike weighs 24 pounds.
You got a name for this bike?
As soon as I dig up a Fids skull/crossbones head badge it’ll be the C.C.RRRRRRRRRRR!